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Citrus trees are one of the best parts of living in Southern California. From the hillside to home orchards that produce the fruits used in home recipes, farmers markets, grocers, restaurants, and businesses. We're happy to grow and be a reliable source of citrus trees.
Our citrus fruit trees are grown in standard and semi-dwarf forms in 5, 15, and 25 gallon sizes. 5 gallon standard size trees are about 2 ft fall with a half inch trunk. The most popular size are the 15 gallon trees are about 4-5 feet tall with an inch size trench. 25 gallons siize trees are not much taller but have a thicker 2 in caliper trunk and more established branching.
Standard trees have a single trunk with the canopy raised above the ground, while semi-dwarf citrus had their tips cut when young to promote side branches to grow like a bush.
In Los Angeles backyards, most citrus trees are kept about 10-15 feet tall when planted about 10 feet apart from another tree. Space trees closer together to keep them smaller, and give them more space to grow larger. Citrus trees do great in the full sun and need at least 5 hours of direct light for healthy growth and fruit production.
Citrus tree care
Water is most important factor to establish a citrus tree.
The frequency of irrigation depends on the factors like the seasonal temperature, humidity, wind speed, and plant health. In general, newly planted citrus trees need 2-3 times water a week in most soils during the Spring and Summer growing seasons. Reduce the frequency of irrigation down to weekly during the cooler Winter season. Larger, established citrus trees require water less frequently.
Fertilize citrus trees every 3 months with our own, Paradise Nursery Organic citrus and avocado fertilizer 8-4-4. March and April is the beginning of the growing Spring growing season in most of the United States and a great time to fertilize. Provide about 1 cup pelleted granular fertilizer for every 1” caliper trunk size. To fertilize, till the top layer of soil above the trees roots. Build a berm so water can collect for the tree. Topdress the fertilizer above the trees roots without making contact with the plant. Flood the berm with water to incorporate the fertilizer into the soil. Paradise Nursery organic harvest booster fertilizer is a great supplement to increase yields applied prior or during flowering and fruiting.
Pruning citrus trees is a science and an art. The size and shape depends on cuts made in the past, and determines the trees future growth. Locate the trees main trunk stzrting from the ground and lateral branches. Remove dry branches, twigs and leaves. Remove any suckers or water sprouts. Create an open center and balanced, symmetrical canopy.
At the end we will review Harvesting and Using Fruits and Pest management. Citrus varieties have come to Southern California from all around the world.
The most popular iconic orange in Los Angeles is the Washington Navel Orange tree. The valencia orange has thinner skin and is more tart, great for juicing. Moro blood oranges have red flesh and the most antioxidants. Cara cara oranges have a pink flesh and have a very delicious, less acidic taste. Late lane navel orange have a unique color and taste between cara cara orange and washington navel orange. Honey and tango mandarin are sweet, seedless, and easy to peel marketed as Cutties in California when in season. Satsuma mandarins have puffy skin and little to no seeds. Dancy mandarins have a delicious tangy sweet flavor and few seeds. Kishu mini mandarins are the small, sweet, juicy mandarins found in chinese salads. Page, Gold nugget, and Algerian mandarins are all sweet, juicy, and delicious.
Grapefruit tree grow relatively big. The Oroblanco produce the classic yellow skin, sweet and bitter flesh fruits. Rio red grapefruits have the red flesh and blush on skin and sweeter flavor. Ruby red is delicious but a coastal variety. Pomelo’s are similar to grapefruits but less bitter. Chandler pomelo tree produce yellow fruits, while valentine produce pink flesh fruits. Kumquat trees are relatively small. Nagami produce the oblong shape fruits with tart flesh and sweet skin. The meiwa produce fruits with sweet flesh and grow slower and stay smaller. At Paradise Nursery we have some specialty citrus varieties like Sour oranges, Calamondin, Buddhas hand, Etrog and Citrons.
Citrus uses in the landscape - Planting design and installation
Lemons and limes since near the kitchen and outdoor bbq because they’re everbearing and great for cooking . Oranges and grapefruits further away since they grow larger and have seasonal fruits. Mandarins and kumquats near the middle of the landscape.
The most popular types of citrus are lemons, limes, oranges, mandarin, grapefruits, and kumquats. There are other specialty citrus like citron. Eureka lemon is the most popular common lemon in Los Angeles. Meyer lemons have thinner skin and a hint of sweetness. Pink lemons taste like the common Eureka lemon, but pink flesh and have beautifully variegated leaves and skin on fruit. Bears limes are the popular large Persian limes but seedless. Mexican key limes are the smaller limes that are often seen yellow. Australian finger limes are long and thin like a finger with light green flesh that is caviar size and shape. Kaffir limes are used in thai cuisine.
CItrus tree planting instructions - Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the rootballs containers. Amend half the soil dug with the same amount of planting mix. Place the tree center and level with the ground. Backfill with amended soil. Build a berm with remaining soil dug from ground. Spread a layer of planting mix above trees roots. Topdress fertilizer above trees roots without making contact with the plants.
Harvest Time - Most citrus trees produce spring flower blossoms in the late Spring and fruits are ripe in the winter and can stay on the fruit into the following Spring.
Citrus Uses in in Southern California Cusine
Spacing Between Trees:
- Standard-sized fruit trees typically require spacing of 20 to 25 feet between each tree.
- Semi-dwarf varieties may need spacing of 15 to 20 feet, while dwarf fruit trees can be spaced closer, around 10 to 15 feet apart.
- If planting multiple rows of fruit trees, maintain spacing between rows to allow for adequate sunlight penetration and airflow.
- Rows should typically be spaced 25 to 30 feet apart for standard-sized trees, and 15 to 20 feet apart for semi-dwarf and dwarf varieties.
- Consider the mature height and spread of the fruit trees when determining spacing.
- Ensure enough space between trees and other structures to accommodate their growth without crowding.
- Plant fruit trees in rows with the north to south orientation to maximize sunlight exposure on both sides of the trees.
- Avoid planting fruit trees too close to buildings, fences, or other structures, as their roots may cause damage over time.
- Prepare the planting area by loosening the soil and incorporating organic matter to improve drainage and fertility.
- Plant fruit trees at the same depth as they were in the nursery container, ensuring that the graft union (if present) is above the soil level.
Step One:
Soil and Planting: Plant in soil that drains well. Dig a hole that is as deep as the tree’s roots and at least twice as wide.
Step Two:
Place the tree in the hole and backfill around the plant’s roots with a mixture of the native soil and high-quality planting mix that has washed sand and organic fertilizer.
Step Three:
Create a basin around the roots drip zone so that water collects. Water deeply until the roots and nearby soil is saturated and reaches field capacity.
Full Sun Exposure:
- Most fruit trees thrive in full sun, which typically means they need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day.
- Choose a planting location that receives ample sunlight throughout the day, preferably in a spot with southern or western exposure.
- Sunlight is essential for photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy to fuel growth and fruit production.
- Adequate sunlight promotes healthy leaf development, flowering, and fruit ripening in fruit trees.
- Avoid planting fruit trees in areas with excessive shade from buildings, tall trees, or other structures, as this can inhibit growth and reduce fruit production.
- Trees planted in shaded areas may produce fewer fruits, have slower growth rates, and be more susceptible to diseases and pests.
- Ensure that fruit trees are spaced appropriately to allow sunlight to reach all parts of the tree, including the canopy, branches, and fruiting spurs.
- Prune surrounding trees or shrubs that may shade fruit trees and obstruct sunlight.
- Monitor changes in sunlight exposure throughout the year, as seasonal variations in sun angle and tree foliage can affect light availability.
- Adjust planting locations or prune surrounding vegetation as needed to maintain optimal sunlight exposure for fruit trees.
Establishment Period:
- During the first year after planting, fruit trees require regular watering to establish strong root systems.
- Water newly planted fruit trees deeply and frequently, providing enough moisture to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
- In general, fruit trees should be watered deeply once or twice a week, depending on soil type, weather conditions, and tree species.
- Adjust the frequency of watering based on rainfall, temperature, and soil moisture levels to prevent both under-watering and over-watering.
- Water fruit trees deeply to encourage deep root growth and drought tolerance.
- Apply water slowly and evenly to ensure that it penetrates the soil to a depth of at least 12 to 18 inches.
- Use drip irrigation, soaker hoses, or watering bags to deliver water directly to the root zone of fruit trees, minimizing water loss through evaporation and runoff.
- Avoid overhead watering, as it can promote fungal diseases and waste water by spraying foliage instead of reaching the root system.
- Water fruit trees in the early morning or late afternoon to reduce water loss through evaporation and minimize stress on the trees during the hottest part of the day.
- Avoid watering fruit trees during windy or extremely hot conditions, as water may evaporate quickly before it can be absorbed by the roots.
- Monitor soil moisture regularly by checking soil moisture levels with a moisture meter or by conducting a simple soil moisture test using your finger.
- Adjust watering practices based on soil moisture levels and weather conditions to ensure that fruit trees receive adequate moisture throughout the growing season.
- During periods of drought or prolonged dry spells, increase the frequency and duration of watering to prevent drought stress and maintain tree health.
- Consider applying a layer of mulch around the base of fruit trees to conserve soil moisture and reduce water loss through evaporation.
Timing of Fertilization:
- Fertilize fruit trees in early spring, just before new growth begins, to provide essential nutrients for the upcoming growing season.
- Avoid fertilizing fruit trees late in the growing season, as it may stimulate late-season growth that is susceptible to winter damage.
- Choose a balanced fertilizer specifically formulated for fruit trees, such as a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) fertilizer.
- Consider using organic fertilizers, such as compost, aged manure, or organic fertilizer blends, to promote soil health and reduce the risk of chemical buildup.
- Apply fertilizer evenly around the base of the fruit tree, extending beyond the drip line of the branches.
- Avoid placing fertilizer directly against the trunk of the tree, as it may cause root burn or damage to the tree.
- Follow the recommended application rates provided on the fertilizer label or based on the specific needs of the fruit tree species and soil conditions.
- Use caution not to over-fertilize fruit trees, as excessive nitrogen can lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.
- Water the fruit tree thoroughly after applying fertilizer to help dissolve and distribute the nutrients into the soil.
- Adequate moisture is essential to ensure that the roots can absorb the nutrients from the fertilizer effectively.
- For established fruit trees, fertilize once a year in early spring, unless soil tests indicate a specific nutrient deficiency that requires additional fertilization.
- Young or newly planted fruit trees may benefit from lighter, more frequent applications of fertilizer during the first few years to support growth and establishment.
- Periodically conduct soil tests to assess nutrient levels and pH balance, as well as to determine the specific fertilizer needs of fruit trees.
- Adjust fertilization practices based on soil test results to ensure that fruit trees receive the appropriate nutrients for optimal growth and fruit production.
Timing of Pruning:
- Prune fruit trees during the dormant season, typically in late winter to early spring before new growth begins.
- Avoid pruning fruit trees during periods of active growth or in late fall, as it may stimulate new growth that is vulnerable to winter damage.
- Use sharp, clean pruning tools, such as hand pruners, loppers, and pruning saws, to make clean cuts and minimize the risk of disease transmission.
- Disinfect pruning tools between each tree to prevent the spread of pathogens.
- Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches to improve the overall health and appearance of the fruit tree.
- Thin out crowded or crossing branches to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration within the canopy.
- Shape the tree to promote an open, well-structured canopy that allows for even fruit production and easy harvesting.
- Begin by removing any dead, diseased, or broken branches, making clean cuts just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk).
- Thin out excessive growth by selectively removing crowded or crossing branches to allow for better light and air distribution.
- Use heading cuts to prune back overly vigorous branches to encourage branching and promote fruiting wood formation.
- Consider the fruiting habit of the tree species when pruning, as some fruit trees produce fruit on spurs (short, stubby branches) while others bear fruit on new growth.
- Train young fruit trees by selectively pruning to establish a strong, well-balanced framework of scaffold branches.
- Encourage outward growth by pruning back inward-growing branches and removing competing leaders to maintain a central leader or open-center shape.
- Different fruit tree species may have specific pruning requirements based on their growth habits, fruiting patterns, and desired form.
- Research the specific pruning needs of the fruit tree species you are growing and tailor your pruning practices accordingly.
- Monitor the fruit tree throughout the growing season for any additional pruning needs, such as removing water sprouts or suckers that may develop.
- Regularly inspect the tree for signs of pests, diseases, or other issues that may require pruning intervention.
Instructions on pest management for fruit trees:
- Monitor for Pests:
- Regularly inspect fruit trees for signs of pest infestation, such as chewed leaves, distorted growth, or the presence of insects or larvae.
- Keep an eye out for common fruit tree pests, including aphids, scale insects, mites, caterpillars, and fruit flies.
- Cultural Practices:
- Maintain good cultural practices, such as proper pruning, watering, and fertilizing, to promote healthy, resilient fruit trees that are better able to withstand pest attacks.
- Remove and destroy any fallen fruit, leaves, or other plant debris that may harbor pests or disease pathogens.
- Natural Predators:
- Encourage natural predators of pests, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory wasps, by providing habitat and avoiding the use of broad-spectrum pesticides that may harm beneficial insects.
- Plant flowering plants nearby to attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help control pest populations.
- Physical Barriers:
- Install physical barriers, such as tree wraps or trunk guards, to protect fruit trees from crawling pests like ants and rodents.
- Use floating row covers or netting to exclude flying insects, birds, and other pests from accessing fruit trees.
- Biological Control:
- Consider using biological control methods, such as releasing beneficial nematodes or predatory insects, to target specific pests while minimizing harm to non-target organisms.
- Introduce parasitic wasps, predatory mites, or other natural enemies of pest insects to help control populations without the need for chemical pesticides.
- Integrated Pest Management (IPM):
- Implement an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that combines multiple pest control strategies, including cultural, biological, physical, and chemical methods, to effectively manage pest populations while minimizing environmental impact.
- Monitor pest populations regularly and use thresholds to determine when intervention is necessary, prioritizing the use of non-chemical control methods whenever possible.
- Selective Pesticide Use:
- Use chemical pesticides as a last resort and only when non-chemical methods have proven ineffective or when pest populations exceed acceptable thresholds.
- Selectively choose pesticides that are least harmful to beneficial insects, pollinators, and the environment, and follow label instructions carefully to minimize risks to human health and the ecosystem.